We successfully bought our next house. The renovations have begun amid work and a million other things. I was digging through pictures and found the first meal I ever had at my current house. The first meal at our new house is a lot better, and the surroundings are nicer too. What a difference 9 years makes.
I will need a temporary work surface when renovating the new house, and have a lot of sheet goods and drywall to cut up. I thought about building some sawhorses and adding on to them, but I don’t have much time. Instead I started with two of these Burro branded horses. Honestly, for 20 bucks a piece, these things are pretty good. Made in USA, stackable, stable, and strong. Just make sure you are choosy, not all were created equal. Explaining the build will be easier with a before and after shot.
I want to put a full sheet of plywood or drywall on these and have the cuts be well supported. That would require a structure almost a full 4×8 feet. I used metal brackets to help it be a quick assemble and break down job. Two 42″ 2x4s go across the saw horses. The saddle brackets keep them upright and a right angle bracket on the edge holds a long support to tie the two horses together.
Every time I use these as a cutting surface I am going to cut into the 2x4s a little. I will adjust blade depth to minimize the damage, but I don’t want metal anywhere near the top surface. The brackets that hold my middle support were too tall, so I cut them down.
The table breaks down into 2 stackable horses, 2 supports that go on top of the horses, 2 long ones that go from horse to horse, and a center one to help prevent sag. The only extra screws needed for assembly are at the four corners where the long stretchers meet the supports on top of the horses. I made sure to install the screws low so the saw won’t catch them. The horses still stack, even with those saddle brackets installed.
When I assembled this I didn’t screw any of the 2x4s down to the horse’s saddle brackets. It all still felt stable. A half inch sheet of plywood and a few screws should turn it into a sturdy temporary work bench. All the drywall cutting I need to do will be aided by this big stable platform as well. The assembled dimensions of the top are 44×84″. Enough to support a 4×8′ sheet, but leave some room at the edges.
When the house work is done I will probably keep it as a way to break down sheet goods. This will be a big upgrade over my current method of hanging them out of the back of the suburban.
One of my office monitors started making odd noises and showing crazy artifacts. It got to the point of being un-usable, so I replaced it. The pair was 5 years old and they don’t sell that model any more. The cheap replacement I bought didn’t come in the same height and neither monitor had height adjustability. A black circular disk printed at the right thickness matched the two screens up well. A copious sprinkling of office desk clutter helps camouflage the printed lifter.
There is going to be a lot of power and low voltage routing going on at the new house. I have been practicing with my oscillating multi tool to get the cutouts just right. A set of tracing templates would help. It turns out low voltage and high voltage boxes are slightly different sizes. Who knew?
They are pretty simple. Color coded and labeled for their intended use, and thick enough to balance a bullet level on top. Mark where you want the box to go, trace out the square, cut and install.
I picked up a laser range finder to help out with all the flooring and other work at the new house. It is really amazingly accurate, but leaves something lacking. There is no case. The delicate output window for the laser is unprotected, and so is the screen. A sock or super basic nylon case would have been helpful. No worries, I printed my own, and shared it on Thingiverse.
Our new place has a bigger yard and that requires a bigger mower. I found a riding mower to act as my trusty yard steed. It fulfills all of my boyhood fantasies of owning a riding mower except one. The cup holder. Basically it doesn’t hold my RTIC cup. I fixed that with a little Husqy orange liner. Can’t go losing your drink every time you hit a bump.
The wonderful wife and I are pulling up roots and moving. Not far, just a few miles away, but our new dig will be bigger and better than ever. I have lived in my fixer-upper for 9 years now and the time has come to move on.
When I moved in I had few tools and not much experience. I ended up renovating the whole house and developing a strong passion for woodworking along with more tool junk than you can shake a stick at. The garage has seen a lot of my screw ups and disasters, but with that, a lot of learning. It has been a slow organic work of progress. That and mostly a huge mess.
I started packing up right after taking these pictures and finishing off my drill press rebuild. This is why I was so interested in it being mobile. It was a little sad to start undoing all my hard work that got this shop to where it is. To offset that, the new garage has over twice the square footage of my current one. Lots of exciting posts to come in the future about new house renovations and shop setup. Until then, goodbye old friend!
My beloved drill press is a Craftsman from the early 90s (I think) that I snagged on craigslist. It has served me well, but is very difficult to move. Top heavy and with a small base; even small shifts in position are precarious. I am going to need to move it a lot soon, so when woot had a Bora Portamate mobile base on sale I snatched it up. I was walking the drill press out of its corner to get the base installed when disaster struck.
I tried to control it on the way down, but once it got going there was no stopping it. I didn’t get hurt but the arm that holds the table broke off. I still had a drill bit installed in the chuck, and that is what kept the table from sliding further. It bent the drill bit, but the quill appears true. I stood it up and started it spinning. No wobble of any sort that I could see. With that established I gathered up the broken parts.
Maybe a quick visit to the local welding shop would have me set right? Apparently cast iron is very difficult to weld. They were not wild about trying, and wouldn’t guarantee me any of their work. Whelp…forget that. After being really bummed for a day or two, I decided I could build up my own top table top out of the scraps I had around. I gained enough confidence to install that mobile base. It floats like a dream now!
I started with a stout piece of oak drilled to match the table arm attachment point. A drill press would have been really useful there, but I managed without. From there I built out ribs that hold the top. I made sure everything was square with respect to the drill bit before screwing them in completely.
The table top will be done with two layers. The top will have a square cutout that holds a sacrificial drill insert, and the bottom has a hole so you can push up from the bottom to remove the insert. I printed a square guide to let me cut out a 2.75×2.75 inch hole for the insert. That new plunge router lets me do all sorts of cool things.
I routed some slots for a set of aluminum t-slot guides that hold the fence in place. The fence is just two pieces of the same plywood glued back to back. I cut a dozen of the center inserts. They all got an undercut chamfer to help keep dust from letting them sit level. This table is smaller than my last, but I feel it is more functional by far. It was a good recovery, and ultimately led me to making a better drill press table.
I got my second publication! August 2018 edition of Popular Woodworking has this fine tip. I really like the illustration they did for it. It looks just like my picture from my post.
Professionally made zero clearance table saw inserts are an important add-on for any table saw. They make the cuts come out cleaner and ensure small scraps don’t get lodged inside the throat. They are quite expensive though. They run over 30 bucks a piece for my saw. No more, time to make my own. I bought a smallish piece of phenolic coated plywood for 40 dollars. It has enough material to make at least 8 inserts.
I started off trying to make a jig that would hold the plywood and make all the blade relief undercuts and slots for the riving knife behind the blade. It was difficult to hold everything and produced mixed results.
Eventually I just used carpet tape to tape down one of my old store bought inserts. A guide bushing on my plunge router let me remove all the area where the riving knife should be.
From there I printed a 7/16″ radius template for the tracing router bit. I could have used the already taped on insert as a template, but it had a few weird features I didn’t want copied. With a finger hole drilled in, things were starting to look right.
I need a way to level out the insert. The pocket they go in is always deeper than a 1/2″ sheet of plywood so you can raise it up to be flush with the top. I used brass threaded inserts for #6 set screws to give each one leveling feet. The set screws can be adjust from above with the insert in place.
The surface coating on this plywood is hard and very slick. A great material for fences or inserts like this. The phenolic chips like mad though. I will stick with these and have left over material, but probably not buy it again. A few coats of polyurethane and wax would be easier to work with and also reasonably slick.
Because of how high the 10″ saw blade is in the housing I had to use a 8″ dado blade to start the cut before switching back to the full sized blade. I made 4 total, and once I got the swing of things they came pretty quickly. Two will be for dado cuts, so they don’t need the riving knife slot. Hopefully this batch lasts me a few years.